With soaring inflation and the ruble dropping to one of its lowest levels against the dollar since President Vladimir Putin launched his war in Ukraine, this year Russians will have to pay more for the dish, which is traditionally served alongside caviar and tangerines, before the New Year is toasted in.

Attempts to tighten enforcement have either been performative or ineffective. Meanwhile, China, India and Turkey have done a booming business turning that crude into jet fuel and other petroleum products that are then sold legally into the European Union, U.S. and elsewhere.